The finer points of bespoke tailoring aren’t everybody’s dish of tea, a fact that’s always eluded me. A proper suit speaks volumes about ones breeding, comportment and station in the world. The word bespoke itself, meaning a custom-made garment, derives from the word speak, that is, you’ve told the tailor exactly what you want the thing to look like, down to the smallest detail. This puts real responsibility on the customer. It implies you know what constitutes a dignified suit or sports coat and you are able to communicate that to the craftsman. You choose the fabric, style, lapel size, cut, stitching, drape, pocket type and vents, but most of all you choose the tailor. I once had a suit made in Seoul, South Korea. I got measured in a shop in Itaewon, the famous market district, and the man said, “Come back this afternoon”. Why? I asked. “First fitting,” he replied stone-faced. When I did, he demanded, “Come back tomorrow morning!” Why? I asked yet again. “Pick up suit.” The coat and trousers, which had been largely glued together, lasted almost two weeks. A suit from Savile Row, London, was another matter entirely.
© 2024 John Oliver
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